Leaving the US turned out to be the easy part, finding my way through Tijuana without a map or cell service was a bit more tricky. I had received some beta from a cyclist a few weeks before who had ridden through Baja California before and he told me once you cross over just turn west to the coast and then ride south. So that’s what I did but not without a few wrong turns or backtracking; eventually I made it to the main road that would take me to the coast and then south, the 1. Unbeknownst to me the 1 splits into the 1 and the 1D. The 1D follows the coast immediately before merging back together north of Ensenada but that road I found out is off limits to cyclists and I had to turn around back north and take an exit. I bike along the beach road for a bit before climbing a hill and getting to a tunnel which was again off limits to cyclists. What a great first day in Mexico and not at all disheartening. I end up staying in a hotel and stones throw from the border fence and figuring out my route for the coming days and it was at this point that I found out about the 1 and 1D split.
Luckily the next day went significantly better, I found the proper version of the 1 and headed south and uphill for the morning. I was stopped by a couple who were curious about what I was doing and like usual compared me to Forrest Gump. A little ways up the road I see the guy who was driving running over with a bottle of water and a Gatorade. He was so nice! I was excited to be leaving the crowds of Tijuana behind me and just getting farther south. I stopped at La Bufadora to check it out, it was pretty cool but a bit touristy and crowded for my tastes. I guess I have spent too much time alone in the middle of nowhere on this trip. One of the street vendors was insistent on giving me a free item and he came back with a ceramic fish shaped fridge magnet. Thanks? Leaving La Bufadora I came across a couple riding north, a Swiss woman and Venezuelan guy. They told me about a Warmshowers host in San Quintín I just had to stay with named Gabino and they were not lying about him or his family. They have hosted nearly 400 cyclists in a little under four years! I roll up to their house 
and his wife Lupita lets me in, shows me around, and then leaves after saying “Mi casa es tu casa”. You really feel like one of their family when you stay with them. Sadly I ended up a bit sick so I didn’t get to interact with them all that much as to not spread my germs but their adorable puppies Tina and Pinky helped me feel better!
From there to Guerrero Negro was spent inland in the mountains, seemingly always climbing and never going downhill. On the ride into Cataviña I spent it with Peter who was riding the Baja Divide mountain biking trail who was taking the day off to ride the pavement for 80km. It was my first time riding with someone since Oregon and it was so lovely. When I finally made it to Guerrero Negro a few days later I was exhausted, had no cash on me, and desperately needed a shower. I checked into a hotel for two nights because I wanted a rest day, take one step into the shower and slip and slice my right heel open . What a great start to my time in Baja California Sur! I ended up spending a third night in that hotel because I was easily convinced to go whale watching to see the Grey Whales in the bay; you really don’t have to twist my arm much to get me to do something. I packed up the following day and was about a half a kilometer down the road when I see two bike tourers riding into town; like usual I pull over to their side of the road and I hear one yell “Natalie???”! My response was a quite measured “Get the fuck out”! It was Sophie and Jérémy from France whom I met jut south of Portland! We meet again! I of course turned around, got a room for the night and spent the day catching up with them since it had been months since we last saw each other. We made sure to exchange info this time so we could actually stay in touch.
I did finally leave Guerrero Negro the next day and stopped in Vizcaíno for what was supposed to be a one night stop. I pull into a hotel/campground and paid for one night. I see a couple with a VW Van just relaxing out in the sun drinking beer and they invite me over for one so I drop my tent pole on my tent and head over for what turned out to be the first of many. There are just certain people that when you meet you instantly know you’re going to be friends and that’s how it was for me when I met Claire and Matt. I spent pretty much the whole rest of the day and night just hanging out with them at their van, only leaving to go get fish tacos at El Conejitos. Then for the next three days we pretty much spent all the time together, coming up with inside jokes, getting to a first name basis with the family that runs El Conejitos, running up a bill for unpaid nights at the campground (don’t worry we eventually paid the day we left), and acting like teenagers buying beer and munchie food from the local gas station twice in one night. When we finally parted ways we had one last beer as a toast to our friendship, until we meet again!
Saying goodbye to Claire, Matt, and Smokey was hard but I know we will see each other again somewhere down the road. So I continued south to San Ignacio where I ran into Sophie and Jérémy again! In my four days of hanging with my travel fam they had passed me on the road. So we spent a day hiking around a desert oasis, which was a first for me. We found a kayak and had to use broom as a paddle, not ideal but it worked plus it was free. We parted ways again then next day as I made my way to the Sea of Cortez for the first time. I was excited to finally be able to swim in some warm waters as opposed to the cold Pacific Ocean. I spent a few lovely nights sleeping on beaches, swimming, kayaking with actual paddles, and SUPing. I saw dolphins, loads of stingrays, and a puffer fish!
My last few days in Baja were fine, I was excited to get to the ferry in La Paz ad over to mainland Mexico. As I sit here on the ferry, I’m filled with a sense of closure, sadness, and joy. Another leg of my journey is done; it was nothing like I had expected and I wouldn’t have it any other way. The people I have met here have been some of the kindest and most welcoming I have ever known. Countless strangers have stopped to offer me water, food, or shelter.
I don’t think I have felt safer riding so far on this trip, which is saying something since I rarely had a shoulder to ride on. Feeling the ferry pull away from the docks was physical door closing on this chapter, I can’t wait to turn the page and see what’s in store for me next!